Oltrepo Pavese.

Oltrepo Pavese may not roll off the tongue like more high profile Italian wine names. Nor do they produce a wine style that resonates highly with the public like, for example, Chianti and Valpolicella. However, if you are staying in on the south side of Milan, take a 45 minute drive and visit the area of Oltrepo Pavese in the Lombardy region.Oltrepo Pavese is in the Pavia province – check out the important university town of Pavia on the way – dominated by vineyards and wineries which are owed principally by hard working families and wealthy people seeking a weekend retreat from Milan.
The primary vino drivers of the 14,000 hectares under vine are sparkling wines made from Pinot Nero, Chardonnay and Croatina (also known as Bonarda) by either the tank-made charmat method or methodo classico.
Behind the dedication there has been plenty of investment, for example, the Caseo Estate established in the late 1990’s has 70 hectares with 40 hectares producing grapes. Caseo’s winemaker Marco Goia is a precise and patient guy who delivers good balance and acidity throughout his range. Caseo’s methodo classico 100% Pinot Nero 2006 Rose is delicate and elegant, with subtle strawberry fruit character and crisp acidity. For the increasing number of low alcohol fans, Caseo’s charmat 5% abv Oltrepo Pavese Moscato is delicious with some trademark acidity, whilst a mellow 2003 Barbera still had structure and flavour.
In contrast, Vanzini is a family run business established in 1890 and now managed by the energetic and dedicated Pier Paolo Vanzini who has gradually purchased all the vineyards surrounding the winery. His award winning Charmat method Pinot Nero Sparkling Extra Dry is rounded, weighty with attractive fruit, whilst his dolce red sparkler Sangue Di Guida (Judas’ Blood) – a style I’m not generally keen on – made from Croatina (Bonarda), Uva Rara and Barbera really has good red fruit character and is more of a demi sec style.
For lunch we visited the family run Belvedere Ristorante, Runio. This restaurant has a real local feel with vineyard workers and winemakers mixing together, enjoying gargantum antipasto dishes followed in my case by a delicious ravioli course and a dessert of fresh strawberries. I couldn’t manage the secondi of pork in breadcrumbs.
Please contact Caseo Estate and Vanzini directly for UK stockists.
A really interesting day included as part of my S Pellegrino trip.