The Wine Tipster was very fortunate to be invited to a dinner at Ormer Mayfair at the famous Flemings Hotel in London. The event was hosted by an old friend Jean-Noel Girard, who is the charming Export Director for Champagne Devaux where he has worked for over 20 years. He was joined by Laureline Perraudeau, Brand Ambassador for W.G.White, purveyors of Caviar & Fine Food. They were treated to a fantastic menu created by Shaun Rankin who incorporated caviar into each dish which was in turn carefully paired with a Devaux champagne.
The apéritif, Cuveé D was paired with Jersey Royals and Royal Tradition Caviar, Ultra D in Magnum was served with Royal Oscietra. My top caviar pairing was the Sevruga caviar with the Turbot and cauliflower and Sténopé 2009 magnum.
The origins of Champagne Devaux date back to the 19th century. Founded in 1846 by brothers Jules and Auguste Devaux, the house was then managed by three inspiring women who led the family winery with remarkable energy and talent in equal measure. Originally located on the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay, their home is now a stunning 18th century Manoir House on the banks of the river Seine. The vineyards are located in The Côte des Bar, south of the Champagne appellation between Bar-sur-Seine and Bar-sur-Aube, which are ideal for Pinot Noir.
Their latest project is a collaboration with Michel Chapoutier bringing together two wine regions to inspire one another. This vision – capturing the very best portrait of a season – is the inspiration behind the name Sténopé. The result is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to create the best representation of a specific year. The Sténopé 2009 served from magnum was stunning, a champagne with great elegance, toasty character, depth and length of finish.
The Sténopé once again shows what a fine Champagne house Devaux is and why they should still be reaching a wider audience as their Extra-Brut Ultra D served from magnum clearly illustrated. Not every Champagne producer achieves an engaging style with Extra-Brut and taste this after you have tried their superb non-vintage Cuvée D. Vintage champagnes are wonderful and yet remain an occasional experience for many and The Wine Tipster recommends D Millésimé 2006, a lovely wine to enjoy now. 2006 remains an underrated year, alongside the more publicised 2002 and 2004 vintages, yet it is year that provides beautiful, expressive fruit character and the D Millésimé 2006 with its low dosage of six grams watch an excellent match with the Camembert.
Established over 120 years ago, W.G. White was the first company to import caviar to the U.K and now supply some of the top restaurants and hotels in London. Laureline taught me more about caviar than I had ever heard before, and with all of Jean-Noel’s knowledge, it made this a fascinating evening. Stunning caviar and very innovative work by W.G. White.
Massive thanks to Laureline, Jean-Noel, the team at Ormer Mayfair and to Shaun Rankin for a fabulous evening.
The Wine Tipster
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